Riding bikes on Cuba
Our journey began last autumn in Kiel, when we boarded the Thor Heyerdahl and set sail in the north of Germany. The luggage we dragged on board contained not only clothes for six months. It also comprised over thirty bicycles which were stored the following three months in darkness below deck so that they can make it to their final destination Kuba safely.
On February 2nd, I stood at the ship´s railing – our last night on board before starting a cycling tour through the western part of Kuba, a country very different from everything we had seen so far. With the help from a local diving school and their speedboat, we transported the bicycles to land and carried out final checks and repairs. I felt excited and eager: ahead of us was a 180-kilometer ride through a country extensively filled with culture.
At first, being on a bike was hard to believe: after roughly three months at sea, we were finally doing extensive physical activity again. Riding a bike felt refreshing and filled us with new experiences and adventures. Our route, planned by ICAP (an organization that builds links between Cuba and other nations), would take us from María La Gorda in the Southwest through Sandino to Pinar del Río. There, we would stay for several days to visit the “Frederico Engels School” before continue cycling towards the Viñales Valley – a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its unique limestone mogotes, tobacco farms, and stunning eroded landscapes.
The first morning on Kuba, just after breakfast, we set off towards Sandino. Quickly, I watched the scenery shift: first along coastal roads with the ocean on our left, then eastwards through forests and small villages where we passed horse-drawn carriages and local riders – a sight I had not expected. Two hours after sunset, we arrived at our hotel and were welcomed by a local TV crew as well as a surprisingly big buffet.
The second day, heading to Pinar del Río, brought more changes: forests gave way to fields, and distant mountains gradually drew nearer, making the route hillier. Traffic increased as we approached the city. Cycling safely with over 35 riders was possible thanks to two police officers on motorcycles who accompanied us the whole way, along with a support bus behind us for luggage or anyone feeling unwell. At first, cycling with police presence felt uncomfortable, even embarrassing – because all cars had to stop and wait until our group passed by. In the end, we started getting used to it but a strange feeling stayed until the end.
A few days later, we cycled for half a day before reaching Viñales, which lays up in the mountains. On the final meters, we encouraged each other on the climbs, looking forward to the downhill return trip three days later. That final descent was my favorite ride, though the entire experience riding in and around Cuba as students was unforgettable.
Just what was it actually like to bike through Cuba? The roads were not always smooth – potholes were common – yet cycling allowed for deep connection. By changing riding partners every hour or two, I learned far more about my fellow travelers than in the last months.
Riding through another culture, one whose daily life differs greatly from ours in Germany, is completely strange. Each evening, we reflected on what we had seen and heard, which helped making sense of the many new – sometimes confusing – impressions. I came to understand that a bicycle here is much more than just a means of transportation. For many Cubans, a bike equals about a year’s salary, meaning one bicycle can support a family for twelve months. That is why, after the tour, we donated all our bikes to “héroes des trabajo” – hardworking students from the “Frederico Engels School”.
Now, a week later, I am back at the railing of the Thor Heyerdahl. My bicycle remains in Pinar del Río, where it will help someone navigate their daily life. Looking back on two weeks of adventure, I have realized what an extraordinary opportunity it was to explore Cuba by bike. It offered a deeper, more intimate view into this fascinating country – one I will always treasure.